The Mėnuo Juodaragis is a yearly event taking place in Zarasai, Lithuania (the location of this festival since 2007). This year in its 16th edition, the festival is host of multiple folk and rock bands, and while among them are present some foreign bands, the greatest majority comes from eastern Europe, particularly from Lithuania and Latvia. What makes this festival peculiar is that it is not specifically themed with music. In fact, every year it has a different leading theme, and the one of this year was as following:
This year, the theme of the Festival is dedicated to our Baltic brothers Latvians – on the Lithuanian-Latvian border we call on both nations to gather in an open-air feast to explore unique music, arts, mythologies, history and many other similarities and differences between the Lithuanian and Latvian nations.
The festival is also enriched by various cultural appointments. Since listing them here would be non-exhausting and redundant, I would send you here in the programme section to take a look. You can also see every previous edition of the festival, since they keep an archive of every past edition’s internet page.
The trip
Coming from Łódź, Poland, we found no other way to get there but via train/bus. Coming from Warszaw, there is a train taking you over the border with Lithuania called “Hańka” that depending on the day goes directly to Sestokai (Lt) or stops in Trakiszki where there is a shuttle bus waiting for the train and taking passengers to Sestokai (6h trip). From there, the best option is to go in Kaunas, which is the second biggest city after Vilnius (the capital city), where you can already take a bus going to Zarasai. The only alternative would be by bus or by car ( or ok, if you are brave enough on foot, tricycle, skate, etc..).
Arrived in Zarasai in the night, when the festival was already started (unfortunately, I wanted to attend the opening rites), we luckily found some people that going there as well showed us the way. The entrance to the festival, a bridge connecting the island and the city, is some hundreds of meters distant from the bus terminal. Arrived there, and mounted the tent (and took a coffee from the Vero Cafe stand), we went immediately to see what’s up on the pinewood stage, one of the three stages; the stages are, namely, the Pinewood stage (in a forest), the Great stage (in the “main square” of the island), and the Northern stage, smaller and embedded in another little brush farther from the other two.
First evening of concert (day 1)
The first nice group didn’t arrive late: Otava Yo ( Отава ё ) is a Russian folk band, surely variegated and worth to see at least once! But better more times! They gave me a good impression and as first group we see from the beginning to the end it was also the best, for me. I love violins, and I totally appreciate gypsy music, from which they have some heavy influence (probably already present in traditional Russian folk); that instrument Alexey Belkin was holding was also somehow attracting my curiosity, but there it looked very usual (the “Gusli” or Russian Psaltery), What’s more, as they themselves state in their bio (“we are not very serious about that, so if you find something you didn’t expect to hear, that’s exactly what we wanted”) they don’t look like the usual band you see on stage. Can be not like that, but they make you think that what they play is something with which they have fun, and not something they have to do for some contract (and seriously, I’m not criticizing any band).
Given we very tired, we went sleep soon after having seen the Changes (USA), which although nice to listen gave some sleepy mood (and they were just finishing when we arrived). We remained first some time seeing some old Latvian movie (was really fascinating to me, all those black/white images and mute), and I was really feeling nice. Although the very cold climate (it was also night, something like 2-3 am) the mood was optimal to see concerts, and people around didn’t really look like worried about the climate, instead was possible to spot some campfires and groups going around with quietness and not really many drinkers like other festivals;
I must emphasize the terrible humidity of the night, and hot climate of midday. In the night it wasn’t possible to sleep because we were more busy trembling, it looks like 2 covers weren’t at all enough, but that is absolutely needed something covering from below and above, like a sleeping bag. A very heavy sleeping bag. And I had just discovered the “hole” in my tent, supposed to be some sort of window to let the air entering, but without something to tap it. Solution for this: hang a string from a pole to the other of the tent over the little window and used a t-shirt as tent. It worked and after some time tiredness caught us (around two hours after).
Second day
Despite my will to go to attend the morning exercises early (at 9), we woke up at 12. I was a bit annoyed by this, also because like that you lose some very important parts of the festival (but falling asleep at 5 probably was fatal for the time). That day early was programmed the start of two sport tournaments, volleyball and horn football, tours around the city and around the Lithuanian-Latvian border (very near!), various lessons and other niceties (and exercises!). So I’ve decided that we should run to eat and assist concerts, given that we had a lot to see!
First of the day in the Northern Stage were Laukis, lovely-appearing a cappella vocal group singing in traditional costumes. They didn’t really impressed me, but still it was a very nice way of saying good morning. Grodi followed them, keeping up the good folklore themes and continuing to enjoy the attending public. Despite the good rhythms, the present atmosphere was the main attraction for me: this stage was in the middle of the trees, and following some stomped path is possible to reach, in a couple of minute, the lake. From here the view is wonderful; the sun mirrors in the lake and the city surrounding the lake looks like shining.
Textual intermezzo: some time before we went to the city to take something at the supermarket, and I could find, of course, things I didn’t really know how to call, or that I couldn’t spell or understand, and things which were the usual thing in a little supermarket: again, many things common to Poland, and in the end I just took water; I wanted to keep eating those tasty things from the spots in the island, like the-things-I-do-not-remember, vegetarian/vegan, from the Hare Krishna’s people and also dishes from the eating spot (and the beer, artigianal and SO good!).
Same place as before, Northern Stage, followed Justina Mileškaitė, a woman with a truly beautiful voice and appearance. I suppose that the language she was singing in was Lithuanian, and the show went on very fast – not a single note wasted. She plays acoustic guitar and Zither, and the elements of his music are mostly folklore; follow Baltos Varnos, a group of three girls playing guitar, speaking poetry and words of wisdom, mostly with folk style. The last group of today on this stage is then Garsinė izoliacija, which unfortunately after a while made me feel sleepy, so I moved to the central stage after this to watch the next performances (and get a beer) of Miglas Asni, some genuine young folk from a group of energetic people, playing a cheerful rhythm which I’ve personally enjoyed; Gilė, probably one of the “folkiest” there, most numerous groups there (and that make you smile, so happy music), they are a group of students from Kaunas (let’s say a club) and Vilki, wolves, a group of men who attempt to reconstruct true ancient Latvian warrior songs, to me a bit remembering other groups, overall during the live (their dresses overall).
I don’t remember very well, the following concerts, but for sure I’ve appreciated Aistė ir SKYLĖ, the group I was mostly waiting for, and AUĻI, truly nice to see live, and a pleasure to hear, never boring!
Third Day
The saddest day of the month! 😦 We will leave the day after.
But before, other concerts to attend: MIDULA – a dream of guitars and voices, RIKŠI, which made people dance on the whole prairie aside from the stage, happy and danceable group, taking some sun on that cloudy day and Chorus LIEPAITĖS, the nicest surprise of that day – many wonderful voices singing traditional songs, something that I’ve never experienced before and I’ll always remember.
The following afternoon, was just the most painful, probably: waiting for the night, we were going around seeing the last parts of festival, some talks, some new views of the lake, some photos to the local inhabitants (ducks and squirrels) and walking around waiting for the night, when we would leave the place and go to wait for the bus to Kaunas, beginning the return to home on various buses and trains.
Comments
I feel totally bewildered writing this like a normal review: such a place cannot be really described by usual writing, like for other music festivals: this is in fact not only a music festival, I want to stress this point, this is more of a cultural festival, where you can truly meet some traditional places, meet different customs. I have also to admit that living in Poland since more than one year I’m already accustomed to many differences. Here I think is not that different, seen from a superficial point of view, because I didn’t really met many people from here and I didn’t enter in any home. Anyway this festival pulled up my spirit, and it will account for the best folk festival of my life. Now, anyway, I’m learning Lithuanian and I’m enthusiast about it!
PS: I don’t want this to be exhaustive, and neither this to be a complete review: I wanted to give a glimpse of what this festival look like for a foreigner, and give some useful information on how to arrive there. Also, my memory is not that good so if the reader was there and found any error or something that would be worth mentioning please email me 🙂